Out-riding the rain

We rode 61 miles to Hammond, Louisiana today.  I didn’t take many photos, as we were making a concerted effort to keep moving, as we knew that rain was expected in the afternoon.

About half the ride was on the Tammany Trace, a very nice, and very straight rail trail.  While it can get a bit boring on a trail, you can’t get lost and you don’t have to worry about traffic.  This trail took us through a couple of very pretty little towns.

One of the trailheads had this map which let us illustrate our route across the country.  It’s too bad the Midwest was obliterated; good thing we didn’t want to illustrate the Northern Tier ride.

We arrived in Hammond ahead of the rain, so we stopped for ice cream.  I’m enjoying salted caramel gelato.  We arrived at the motel just as the rain was starting—perfect timing!

On foot in New Orleans

Nancy had arranged to rent a large van so that those of us who wanted could go into New Orleans and explore a bit.  We lucked out on beautiful weather and took the trolley to the Garden District, which I had never visited, and then back to the French Quarter.

Tomb in the Lafayette Cemetery in the Garden District 

Mardi Gras decorations

Of course we had to eat.  We visited Sucre, a very nice patisserie off Bourbon Street.

Since we didn’t stay for the evening parade, I didn’t need to buy this finery.

Bike art has been in short supply so far this trip.

View from the River Walk 

Another day, another bridge, another state

We rode 67 miles to Slidell, Louisiana, enjoying nice roads with good shoulders, light traffic, and only a few smatterings of rain.  Our route sounded like news reports after Katrina: Gulfport, Pass Christian, Bay St. Louis.  Not having seen the area before, I wasn’t aware of signs of that huge storm.  I feel like I’m getting my biking legs back, although favorable winds also help.  We are staying in a very large house right on the shore of Lake Pontchartrain for two nights.

Family business in Gulfport

We met this gentleman on the Bay St. Louis Bridge.  He is walking from California to Washington DC as a way to encourage people to pray.  I’m not sure of the connection.

View from one of several small bridges we crossed.

Mattan, cutting the traditional Mardi Gras king cake we had for dessert, is a second generation rider with the group.  I have done several rides with his mother, Ziva, and Mattan and his wife Michelle rode with us a few days on the Gaspe in 2017 and joined us now from Tallahassee to New Orleans.  They are many years from retirement, so don’t have the luxury of longer trips.

Sunset on Lake Pontchartrain, taken from the deck of our house.

Another new state

We rode 67 miles today from Tillman’s Corner to Biloxi, Mississippi.  The first 40 or so miles were just perfect riding, sunshine, cool, almost no traffic, lovely country roads.  After the lunch stop, traffic picked up, and the last 7 miles along the beach to our motel were a real pain.  We had read that police stop bikers and instruct them to ride on the sidewalk.  We wanted police to stop us su that we could ask where to find a sidewalk.  Between construction, parade barriers, and sand, I think I was on and off my bike 15 times on a three mile stretch.

First time I’ve ever been in Mississippi.

Seems like an aptly named road.

When our drivers asked if they could park the truck in the church parking lot and set out lunch, the church staff invited them to use the fellowship hall.  We were delighted to sit down in comfort.

Approaching the Biloxi Bay Bridge, which had a 10 foot wide protected bike and pedestrian lane.

A mosaic of the bridge on the approach.

 The art museum in Biloxi was designed by Frank Gehry.  We were out of luck again, as it is closed on Mondays.

Around Mobile Bay

We had a short, interesting, windy ride today, 38 miles north to Mobile, through the city, then south a bit to Tillman’s Corner.  After several cloudy, foggy, humid days, we were greeted this morning with clear skies and low humidity.

We rode past the U.S. Academy of Sports, which has this great biking tribute.

We didn’t see any alligators, nor did we have any desire to jump in.

The USS Alabama, now part of the Battleship Memorial National Park.

Biking across the Africatown USA bridge into Mobile.  Most traffic uses a tunnel into downtown, so it was just us and trucks carrying hazardous materials on the bridge.

A well decorated old building in downtown Mobile.  We had hoped to go to the Mardi Gras Museum today, but it isn’t open on Sunday.

My sentiments exactly.

Are speed lumps to Alabama what bubblers are to Wisconsin?

Alabama the Beautiful

We rode 46 miles from Pensacola to Fairhope, Alabama.  We’ve been riding 11 days; only Texas will take longer to cross.  We started cautiously in heavy fog, which fortunately cleared quickly.  Once we could see and be seen, we had a nice ride on country roads.  We arrived at our destination with time to look around town, as well as eat ice cream, before checking into our motel.  The town was very busy, with lots of visitors here for a Mardi Gras parade.

The red clay roads were pretty, but probably not so good for driving, and definitely not for biking.

This well fed little guy came up to say hi.

More regional food.  I tried swamp soup, which is greens, bean, and sausage.  And I had a catfish po’boy for dinner.  Haven’t had any “biled” peanuts yet,

Mardi Gras parade.  In addition to catching a few beads, I got hit in the forehead by a plastic cup hurled from a float.  I should have worn my bike helmet.

Beach day

We rode 60 miles to Pensecola, mostly with a tail wind, and frequently with great views of the Gulf and various bays.  The highlight of the day, and even of the trip so far, was a 20 mile stretch on a barrier island that is part of the Gulf National Seashore.  Much as I love a tail wind, I was sorry it was speeding our ride along sand dunes and sea.

Who’s that famous person attracting so many photographers?

Sand and sea, But not a lot of sunshine in the Sunshine State.

Mardi Gras preparations.

We weren’t expecting to see aliens until New Mexico.

Gourmet popsicles for an afternoon treat.  Mine was chocolate hazelnut, like a grown up fudgesicle.

Where’s the Gulf

We rode 52 miles from Panama City to Destin, much of it very near the Gulf.  However, between fog most of the morning and a lot of ocean front development, we didn’t have many views of the water.  Fortunately, we had bike lanes or trails most of the way and met up with Ken and Nancy at a crucial spot. Several riders missed a turn they pointed out to us and did have to ride in traffic.

We are definitely in tourist territory.  I don’t think the hurricane is responsible for this building.  About five miles west of Panama City, we realized that we were no longer seeing storm damage.

  

The tourists weren’t renting many bikes on a foggy day.

Best treat so far, a chocolate sea salt mammoth doughnut!  And we shared some excellent key lime pie at dinner.  Makes for a good day.

We passed this sign last week outside Gainesville.  Much to my regret, I was in too much traffic to stop for the photo, and I just remembered to ask Nancy to share hers.

Rest days in Panama City, February 19 and 20

 Yesterday I opted to cut short a 68 mile ride and get on the truck to do the grocery shopping, as I was the scheduled cook for that evening.  It was nice to have dinner pretty much ready when everyone else rode in.  If we have another long ride the next time I am cooking, I think I will do the same thing.  We were all pretty sober because of the extent of the hurricane damage we rode through.  The storm was a category 3 up here.  What does a 5 look like?
Our mood improved with very nice surroundings in a large house which saw very little damage.Most of used the day off to clean bikes and relax.  An adventurous younger couple who joined the trip in Tallahassee walked to a state park where they saw an alligator.  I’m jealous.

The roads are full of white pickup trucks and other construction vehicles.  Traffic is heavier than we like, but I don’t know if that’s linked to the reconstruction effort.  Also, several riders had flat tires on Tuesday, as there is a lot of junk in the roads.

I was amazed at the extent of regional cuisine in the supermarket.  I could have photographed the extensive selections of grits or black eyed peas.  I bought some raw peanuts from Plains, Georgia, in honor of Presidents Day.  We sampled them raw and then roasted them.  Excellent!

A few views from around our very nice lodgings.