Summing up

I rode 3,038 miles, give or take a few.  One of the casalties of the trip, in addition to my bike shorts, was my bike computer, which began operating erratically early on and gave up completely last week,so there is a little guestimating in that total.  My duffel bag went in the trash yesterday after I unpacked, and the trunk bag for my bike needs some repair work.  On the plus side, I had only one flat tire, and that was a slow leak which I discovered before I rode out one morning, much easier to fix than if I were on the road, and I had no other major issues with my bike.  I also lost a few pounds on my pie and ice cream diet.

I'm challenged to believe that I really powered myself all the way from Seattle to Pittsburgh.  At the same time, I feel more connected to the entirety of the country than I've ever been before.  I don't know if a cross-country drive gives you the same feeling.  Last Sunday as I was riding through Cleveland suburbs, I thought back to a very different Sunday in Montana when I saw no signs of habitation for many miles.  With a few twists and turns, those two roads link directly to each other.  

I was about a mile from the end of the ride into Pittsburgh when a friend took this picture.

I rode on 51 days, and I did enjoy every ride, even if on a few days it was the sense of accomplishment that provided the satisfaction, not the struggle against the headwinds!

Last two days

I have hardly focused on the fact that I've finished the trip, as the last two days have been very challenging.  Yesterday was supposed to be a 63 mile ride, but I clocked 80.  One bike trail was marked incorrectly, to my mind at least, so we added a few miles getting to the correct fork of the trail. When we thought we were back on the right track a detour sign popped up on the trail, so we added a few more miles getting around that hurdle.  Instead of visiting the Kent State Memorial, we did a little extra exploration of eastern Ohio.  All along we encountered what I call Hobbsian hills--nasty, brutish and short.

I lack an adjective for today's hills , as they were nasty, brutish, and long.  On a 73 mile ride into Pittsburgh, we climbed close to 5000 vertical feet, the most climbing in a single day of the entire trip!  Dueling Garmins gave different readings of the steepest hill; the estimates ranged from 16 to 25 percent.  Whatever it was, it was challenging to walk up, which I think everyone on the trip did.  Once we got in to Pittsburgh, we found good bike trails  and excellent bike bridges over the rivers.  The last twelve miles were mostly flat, most welcome after all the climbing.  

Four baby barn swallows in a nest on the porch of the house where we stayed in the Cuyahoga National Park.

A yard full of bikes, as we prepared to leave the park on a rainy morning.

All I saw of Kent, Ohio, 15 miles behind schedule.

The weird sittings have been in short supply, so I was happy to find this guy on my last morning.  He's outside a gym and seems appropriate for the Olympics.

Crossing the Beaver River, with a few hills in view.

The Pittsburgh skyline and a trail that was not the bike trail.

We can still look lively after a long day.

Ohio-Erie Canal

We rode 61 miles today into the Cuyahoga National Park, riding around Cleveland and back and forth under and over the Ohio Turnpike.  Since I drive the Turnpike occasionally, it will be more interesting now, remembering where I've ridden.  We rode through a large park that reminded me of Rock Creek Park, lovely, winding, and a bit confusing.  Today we did get caught in rain, not unwelcome on a steamy day, but the last four miles were on a crushed limestone trail, and my bike and I were very muddy at the end of the day.

Great bakery stop this morning.  I'm about to bite into a bear claw, excellent pastry and a wonderful nut filling.

Nancy, looking genteel under her umbrella.

Bikes are allowed on the train that stops at this Depot.  We inquired as to taking the train to avoid the mud, but it didn't go to our destination, an 1843 farm house now operated as a hostel by the Cuyahoga National Park Conservancy.

The Ohio-Erie Canal is much more deteriorated than the Chesapeake and Ohio.  Can you find the lock?

There are still traces of the canal, but it is quite obscured most of the way.

Lake Erie shore

Our 50 mile ride today with temperatures in the 80's, overcast skies, and a tailwind was easy, especially as I reached the destination ahead of the afternoon thunderstorm.  We are right on the shore of Lake Erie, and I did have a great swim when the weather finally cleared this evening.

1871 viaduct we crossed on a bike trail this morning.

Interesting architecture in Norwalk, where I had a piece of peach pie which didn't measure up to the high standards of earlier in the week.

One of our support family skipping stones in Lake Erie.

Sunset on the lake.

Sunset photographers on the lake.

By the Dawn's Early Light

No Internet yesterday or today, so I got smart and set up a personal hot spot.  Let's hope it's strong enough to post my blog.

Yesterday was another hot day, so we rode out at 6:30 to get in as many miles of our 84 mile day as possible in the cooler air.  We crossed the Ohio border, had a good second breakfast at Mom's Cafe, and rodrode shady trail before the heat got too bad.  We had about 20 miles without shade and sought refuge in an air conditioned McDonald's for lunch, as it was too hot to have the truck waiting a couple of hours for all of us to pass by.  Cooled off and with a resupply of water and ice, the final 24 miles, with shade and a tail wind, weren't too bad.  We arrived in Fremont, Ohio about 3 pm, just before the rain and did not visit the Rutherford B. Hayes Presidential Library.

Morning sky as we were getting on our bikes.

Ohio has some very good bike trails.  Note the edge and lane markings on the Wabash Cannonball Trail, a veritable bike expressway.

The very low and shaly Huron River.

More hot and muggy

The Internet seemed to disappear last night, so I watched Olympic swimming.  We had a 70 mile ride yesterday, and a 77 miler today, with temperatures in the 90s by afternoon.  Just like DC, and I had hoped I would miss all this.  Yesterday some riders and support team members from the ride I was on three years ago appeared at our hotel, and it was fun to catch up with them.

We rode some nice trails yesterday morning, with good shade and pretty stream crossings.

We also crossed back and forth over the Grand River six times, I think.

Relaxing beside the trail.  We were congratulating ourselves, because we had heard about a construction detour in time to plan a very pleasant alternate route.  We didn't manage to avoid the stretches of muddy dirt road that came later.

Gene had a very loud blowout this morning, which required both a tube change and a trip to a bike store for a new tire.  His temporary repair including wrapping a couple of inches of tire with electrical tape.

Treats are plentiful at the moment.  Yesterday we found a cafe with unphotogenic but delicious fresh cinnamon rolls.  Today our lunch stop was right next to an ice cream stand.  I'm having a black cherry cone.

Michigan trails, low drama

After lots of challenging rides, 60 miles, mainly on trails and with good treat stops, is a laid-back kind of day.  We are staying at a retreat center in Lowell, Michigan, east of Grand Rapids, and about a half mile of gravel road was the challenge for the day.  One of the group cooked dinner, and the fresh sweet corn and other vegetables from a farm stand were yet another treat for the day.

I've never seen a purple port-a-potty before, and if you look closely, you'll see the purple petunias as well.

No rocks in trees today, just energetic boys.

Fresh homemade peach pie, $2 a slice, at a cafe this morning.  Such a day!

Eastern Daylight Time

Today we covered the most miles and had the shortest riding day of the trip.  We biked about 12 miles, and we also crossed Lake Michigan on the high speed ferry from Milwaukee to Muskegon.  Every day now I think of how few days remain, as I have only Michigan, Ohio, and one day in Pennsylvania before I return to the real world.

One of my favorite sites on the Milwaukee waterfront is the Art Museum, with wings that open and close.  This morning I rode down to see them open for the day.

Mural on a wall in Milwaukee's Third Ward, once a derelict area of old warehouses, and now a "happening" part of the city.

Bike flower boxes decorated several blocks of downtown Milwaukee.

Can you find the rock in the tree?  Can you tell me why it is there?  We noticed at least half a dozen similarly decorated trees in a park in Muskegon, but didn't take time to investigate the rationale.

Our support team for the last stretch of the trip includes three children.  The youngest is checking out an interesting bike rack.

Sunset at Muskegon Bay.

Urban riding

Today was almost a rest day, only 35 easy miles into and around Milwaukee.  Much as I hate driving in Milwaukee, I discovered three years ago that riding in the city, as least on Sundays, is quite pleasurable.  Lots of friendly bikers are out and about, and several of us were guided around detours and on sightseeing tours by local bikers.  We rode a while with three bikers discussing the merits of various ice cream establishments in the city--definitely my kind of folk!  I regretted missing a store known for its homemade ice cream, but I opted instead for a locally famous custard stand, as that spot also included a ride up the Lake Michigan shoreline.  Alas, I have no photo of my hot fudge sundae, as it was melting quickly.  

One of our support team took this photo from the window of the vehicle.

Riding up Wisconsin Avenue, we were just in time to see the bridge lift straight up.

The same bridge includes a statue of Gertie the Duck, whose story I knew as a child.  She was discovered in April, 1945 on a piling under the bridge, sitting on a nest with nine eggs.  The whole city, ready for a diversion from the war, followed her saga, as six eggs hatched and five ducklings survived storms and a fire.

We are staying in a dorm at Marquette University tonight. This 13th century chapel dedicated to Joan of Arc, was moved from France first to New York, and then to the campus here.  Joan supposedly worshipped in it before going in to battle.

Near the Chapel is modern statue of Pere Marquette, who with Louis Joliet explored the upper Mississippi River.

Clear skies

We've had clear skies, low humidity, and low mileage the last two day.  All of this was particularly fortunate yesterday when I added 10 miles and several hills to the 40 mile ride.  We missed the very first turn, something I've never managed to do before, but ended up on the road we were supposed to be on.  However, we were heading the wrong direction, and when we figured this out, we had to turn around and go back up the hill we had just blissfully rolled down.  At least we earned our morning treat.  When we arrived in Madison, I had a good visit with more friends and family.  

Today we had time in Madison to visit the wonderful farmers market at the Capitol Square before we headed for a 50 mile ride, mainly on bike trails, on our way to a church in Dousman.  I'm back very close to where I grew up, and one of the women making dinner for us knew some of the people with whom I had gone to elementary school.

Heading in to the farmers market.

What color corn do you want?

A fantastic flower stand.

The junction of Junction and Junction.

A small obstacle on the trail.

Hot and muggy

We have been riding on bike trails yesterday and today.  Yesterday we were on the Sparta-Elroy trail, the oldest rail trail in the country.  It is particularly nice in hot weather, as you walk through three long tunnels, and it is much cooler when you are inside.  The trails are generally shady, which also helps on a hot day.  However, the surface is crushed limestone, pretty good for riding, but dusty, and with the high humidity we've had, the dust sticks to your legs.  I like to think it helps discourage mosquitos. 

We rode 70 miles today, from our nice B&B near Wilton, to a retreat center outside Baraboo.  The glaciers didn't quite get to Baraboo to level off the hills, so we did some good climbing.

I meant to post this picture yesterday and forgot.  I took it near my friend's sheep farm, as it is such an idyllic rural scene.

We had lunch at the International Crane Foundation.  I have visited there twice, so I didn't go in again today.  I could hear the cranes, but I had to settle only for seeing these guys bobbing in the wind.  

On, Wisconsin!

Yesterday was a rest day, and it and the day before were so full that I had no time to write.  On Monday, we rode 56 miles from Rochester to Winona.  I hurried because I was on an urgent errand, buying new bike shorts to replace the two pair that are nearly worn through.  I was also hurrying to meet a friend who lives about an hour from Winona on a sheep farm in Wisconsin.  I spent Monday evening and most of Tuesday with her and her husband.  Their farm, in a peaceful, secluded valley, represents almost 38 years of hard work and investment, and I an in awe of what they have accomplished.

 

Today we rode about 75 miles from Winona to Wilton, Wisconsin.  The Wisconsin portion of the trip is the only segment I have already ridden, and I enjoyed it so much three years ago that I was eager to repeat it this year.

Why is this guy in someone's front yard?  I like his big, blue eyes.

First view of the Mississippi River, looking across to the bluffs on the Wisconsin side.

I have way more pictures from the farm than I can share.  The border collies at work, whether on command or not, are definitely favorites.

My friend and I stopped at the National Eagle Center in Wabasha, Minnesota, where she took this picture of me standing in a replica of an eagle's nest.  Since eagles add to the same nest every year, the nests can end up weighing as much as a ton.

We rode in mist and fog for a couple of hours early this morning.

Ben Bikin', in Sparta,Wisconsin, is claimed as the world's largest bicycle.  Three years ago, I skipped going to see Ben so that I could get to an ice cream shop.  This year, I managed both.  The ice cream soda was as good as I remembered.

Today was a prime day for treats.  This Amish raspberry pie was one of the best I have ever eaten.